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Landships II -> Landships WW1 Forum -> Modelling -> How to make rubber tank tracks for RC Mk V
Post Info TOPIC: How to make rubber tank tracks for RC Mk V
BC312


Colonel

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How to make rubber tank tracks for RC Mk V
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I am converting a Emhar Mk V Female tank 1/35  scale to RC control. I have fitted all the motors and RC bits and bobs etc. Now's the hard part, the actual running gear is quite easy especially controlling the motor speed, i need to make a few rollers and new back and front sprockets, what i do need to work out is the tracks. If Emhar made flexible tracks like the Tamia range then i would have no problem but the Emhar tacks are very stiff and not flexible enough plus they come in sections. I was thinking of casting the Emhar tracks in a silicone rubber or at least a stiffer type of silicone  in a one piece track or find a flexable drive band (same dimensions length to the Emhar tracks) and dress up to replicate the track plate links etc. Has any one tried to make cast rubber tracks or is there someone in the modeling world who makes them. I have heard that there are people who make tracks for obsolete toys. Any suggestions welcomed



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Paul Bonnett


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Hi, You could try getting a set of aftermarket resin tracks and try making a copy from them in a hard silicone rubber, which would reduce problems of trying to copy the Emhar type. Or even approach one of said companies with the same question you have posed here, Accurate Armour make resin WW1 tracks in UK.
HTH
Paul

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Paul H


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Couldn´t you use the tracks from a toy bulldozer??


http://www.brudertoys.com/Pro-Series/c21/p404/CATERPILLAR-Bulldozer/product_info.html

 

here they show caterpillar stuff in 1/32nd scale

http://www.3000toys.com/catalog/products.asp

 

Also ...apparently you can buy the tracks seperately.

The only way I could possibly think you could cast your own...would be to make a flat mold a bit longer than needed, and use liquid rubber but add some sort of mess to stop the rubber ripping.



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James H


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Balata Belting!

http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?aBID=63528&p=3&topicID=29115294



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Francisco


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1. Make a silicone mould of those Emhar tracks;
2. Make copies using an uretane elastomer with your prefered hardness.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer
http://www.hbquimica.pt/site/info_catalogo.asp?id=9&pai=2

That's how shoe soles, scale tank tracks and scale car tires are done, the only difference is the hardness of the elastomer.


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BC312


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I had a word with Accurate armour and looked at the idea of robbing a caterpillar tracked model, they said it maybe difficult to do. As with the caterpillar tracks they have to be the right length. I will keep these in mind but will have a try with making a mould and casting with a strong silicone. I may also try to use a flat drive belt from hover or something similar. It looks as its a matter of experimentation.

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T140


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How are you going to get the drive wheel to move the tracks? More modern vehicles have spoked wheels and gaps in the track plates for them to engage, but these tanks were different. Just wondering if you will get enough grip from the drive wheels.

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BC312


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Because the main wheels are hidden out of view and upon determining the type of track method used, i will knurl the driving wheels (made of metal) to act as grip. Although not original these are not seen. The driving wheels will be machine out for a driving band to fit from the motor cog.

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CrashandBern


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Hi it may be worth checking out a product called Flexane if I remember correctly it was made by Devcon. We used to use it cast joints and elbows for wiring looms and it comes in a range of strengths and flexibility, it's not quite as flexible as silicone but more durable so may be good for your tracks. 

Cheers

Bern

 



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Has anyone else noticed "new and improved" seems to mean it doesn't work as well as it used to?

 
BC312


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Well its been a while since i last posted on this subject. I have figured out how to make a continuous rubber track for my RC tank, after experimenting and wondering how they are made at the factory it suddenly became clear. The best way to make one is on a circular mould. This mould can be made in any material that can be lathed ie metal or hard plastic or even wood. I made mine out of metal, from two flanges from a boiler system, its all i could find that suited the diameter of the required track size, just by working out the circumference and diameter, in my case for the 35th scale erhmar model 495mm for the circumference and about 6"1/8 for the diameter. Please note that these tracks are at experimental stage ie they are in white silicone that needs to be coloured as well as changing the shore hardness or type of material. The rivets need to be added as well as the raised track parts need to be rounded rather than squared.

 

I first lathed the large diameter metal blank of the profile of the inside of the track to suit the running gear of my model, this can be made to suit any type of running gear. ie one groove, as with mine or two etc. I then made a step for the outer shells to fit around. The shells were made from 1.8mm mild steel flat strips that had the groves milled on a horizontal milling machine, unfortuantly i only had  flat edged cutters, not rounded ones that would have gave a bit more realisim to the track finish, but thats not the end of the world. The outer shells were made in two pieces. At his stage i did not add the rivets, formed by a fine center punch but these will be added at a later stage.

The milled flat strips were easily curved and bent in place around the the main mold and cut to suit with a filling hole made in the shell. I first taped the outer shells in place and filled with a 24 hour RTV 25 silicone that i had to hand, unfortuanly i found that the mould leaked and the first test had air pockets around the first track.

I had a re-think and made two holes, a filling hole and a air hole to release the air. the edges of the outer shells where it leaked in parts had two large elastic bands in place to form a seal with a thicker steel band in place held and clamped together forming a perfect seal with two large diameter jubilee clips. The second test worked perfectly. I used a syringe filled with silicone  and filled slowly from the bottom so the air came out first followed by the silicone. I allowed the silicone to settle with the syringe wedge in place (the syringes have a slight taper at the nozzel) for half an hour this allowed any remaining air to find its way out. i left the syringe in place and de-moulded after 24 hours, hey presto  perfectly formed track.

Rather than make a slightly smaller mould for a shorter track you can cut the track to suit and re- stick the track with the same silicone useing the mould to set the two track ends in alignment, just as strong in the cut place with any other un-cut part of the track. This is something i had to do later on.

 



-- Edited by BC312 on Saturday 5th of November 2011 10:08:30 PM



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-- Edited by BC312 on Sunday 6th of November 2011 08:59:52 PM



-- Edited by BC312 on Sunday 6th of November 2011 09:01:02 PM



-- Edited by BC312 on Sunday 6th of November 2011 09:03:24 PM



-- Edited by BC312 on Sunday 6th of November 2011 09:05:03 PM

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Roger Todd


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Sounds like a really interesting project! I've always wondered why nobody seems to have adaped a 1/35 WW1 tank to run, whether RC or otherwise. Nice to see someone's doing it at last! Do you have any photos you can post?

Whilst I know it's too late because you've already settled on how to make your tracks, but did you consider getting a small roller-chain and making track plates for it?



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BC312


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I do have pictures to post  but not sure how to at the momement, i will get them posted as soon as i can.

I had been looking at roller chain, the smallest having a pitch of 3.75mm that would most probaly work, even smaller would be better but its finding it. This size chain would be good for the drive but would i get suitable cogs to match as well. Do you or anyone else know where i can get such chain?



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Roger Todd


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Blimey, now there's a question! I would look at ebay first. Actually, I just have and there's not much there (well, nothing small enough).

Interestingly, it's possible to get plastic roller chain, which might be better/easier to work with, and would probably be strong enough for a 1/35 tank:

http://www.plastockonline.com/1/4pitch-2.aspx

1/4" pitch, so a bit big but the smallest a casual search uncovers. But to be honest, you sound like you've got so far with your method I wouldn't bother wasting time on roller chains if I were you.

As for pics, have you tried simply uploading them straight from your hard-drive when posting a message? It saves having to host them with a third-party.



-- Edited by Roger Todd on Sunday 6th of November 2011 08:55:40 PM

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BC312


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Pictures now posted, any questions just ask. The roller chain method would be ideal for a larger scale model, if you see an ideal chain let me know.



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Roger Todd


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By 'eck, that looks good, lad! Very effective! I'll bet it works a treat, thanks for those pics and please keep us updated on your project, looks fascinating!

EDIT:

A quick bit of research yields the fact that the pitch of the links for the tracks for a Mk I (I don't think it changed for the Mk IV but stand ready to be corrected) is 7.5" (around 19cm), so at 1/35 scale that corresponds to 5.5mm or a little under 1/4". Now, the smallest pitch roller chain I can find is 1/4", so not far out and I think would be quite acceptable for a working model. Long lengths of 1/4" roller chain can be obtained from - wait for it - model robot suppliers!

Roller Chain 1/4" at RobotShop

Why didn't I think of it before?



-- Edited by Roger Todd on Sunday 6th of November 2011 09:18:39 PM

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