On my last project I started converting a Takom Mk I into a Mk II. I will reproduce a Female tank (most probably the well known THE PERFECT LADY).
Decals will come from set #35008 of ddecal.ru.com owened by Alpha Six
As well discussed in another thread Takom Mk I is a good start kit but its drive cab is too narrow. This is a major shortcoming for a Mk I but a good start point for a Mk II sinche this version has the narrow cabin coimmon to Mk IV with some features of Mk I (mainly the MG front cover)
I made a short list of modifications to obtain a Mk II just reported in an old thread
1) add the reinforcement lips around front driver and TC hatch holes (look at part D22 to proper shape).
2) use front hatches from Mk IV (part C26 instead of V7);
3) use roof plate D21 instead S13, add exaust end, use PE parts TP3, fill rear holes for sprud basket and exaust cover (parts E17, E18 and E19 on mk IV);
4) you need a new rear observation hatch. In Mk I kit you find only some parts of it (D13 and D15 but not E4, E5). You need also a new plate reinforcement with plate hinges (Mk IV E15 without rail supports) instead of MK I T29;
5) I am not sure of this: use D7 instead of S12
6) change on front hull horns (sprue M) the rounded tensioning bolt housing with squared like Mk IV. Use part C2 instead of V5.
7) on S6 rear plate fill holes for parts T1 and T2,
8) add a basket between the rear horn and its two straps. Refear to pictures from the net or from this thread for their shape and position.
9) erase the rear gear were the tail axel is connected to the hull and fill holes,
10) fill holes were parts T4 and T5 are connected to hull
11) erase the buttom tube for steering tail wire;
12) use track spruds,
13) on steps 10 and 17 change the upper gear model B (light duty) with one of model A (heavy duty), this a common mistake from Takom on all their rhomboid tanks.
14) drill front head light because Takom made them solid.
15) on Female tank: you need to make an adapter for MG on side sponsons since Mk II had Lewis MG instead of Lewis. Note you have all four Lewis on sprues C (parts C6)
Now let's go to the model.
I started with the front horn. To mount the idler wheel in forward position (my choice to make the model a little different from the others and more correct in this area) I cut the tensioning bolt erasing also side bolt. Then I make the tensioning hole squared from its rounded shape
With my CAD program I copied the Mk IV lips, printed on cardbord, soakinc in CA glue and finally cut on the proper shape.
New tensioning bolts are resin copies of original ones and they are simply glued turning 180 degrees.
Fill also the headlight hole. I will redo them with scrap PE parts. Don't be afraid or erasing some rivets because you find plenty of them on kit sprues.
Rear covers and horn need some work.
On the front cab plate I add resin copies if reinforcing lips around driver and TC hatches.
Note Takom made a right shaped plate but what seem out of scale details so front plate is too busy and different from the real one. Not a good news but I can live with it.
The upper rivets row needs to be repositioned and so on upper and rear plates.
The upper roof comes from Mk IV and you find it in the box. I add reasin copy of exaust ends and a new observation hatch (again a resin copy from Tamiya with a resin copy from Takom Mk IV of its hinges).
On the rear I add a new pasticard plate and fill alla bin's holes.
On the rear plate i fill holes for Mk I tail raising cylinder protection. Later I will add the armured protection for the envelope radiator's cap.
On the rear hor I erase all details, fill holes and finally I add a resin copy of transmission bearings' cover.
-- Edited by Pierantonio on Sunday 10th of January 2016 11:18:34 AM
How is this project progressing? I am bursting to see any final mods & some paint...
Not least of all because I have 4 Takom kits [2 x Mk.I & 2 x Mk.IV] and change my mind every 5mins about what they will become when I eventually build my first ever WWI tank.
Right now I am loving the rotoshield re-fit details for Lewis guns, even if I have never liked the little stowage box on the rear of Mk.II tanks - which reminds me of a header tank and only needs a ballcock to complete the effect :P
__________________
"You there on the port!". "S'gin actually, but thanks for noticing [hic]".
unfortunately I am fast in building but very slow in painting work so I have 8 model in various painting stage.
First of all I finished my St Chamond after 5 months (still waiting for her crew).
Now I am painting the MkIV Female Wire Crusher and I started the MKII with primer and base color for comouflaged sponson. I had the very nice decals from Alpha Six so I can go on. Note I have some other British stuff on the background.
Another cause of the delay was the article I am writing for an Italin Forum about an Italian Army M60A1
But last week I finished ao I could start my new landiship project: the MKI Supply tank "DODO" (again tanks to Alpha Six decals) with my 3D printed cab (and 150 rivets!)
Thanks for the update. A real joy to see your passion & ability for modelling these beasts.
'Dodo' is a definite for my Mk.I Male, or at least a very similar supply tank if I can find adequate decal references.
How did you cast the 'anti-splash' hatch rims for your Mk.II drivers cab? Were the moulded from a Mk.IV component and then sanded back? This is the only tricky part of a Mk.II conversion - for my abilities - that I can see...
__________________
"You there on the port!". "S'gin actually, but thanks for noticing [hic]".
They are a resin copy from takom front plate you find in the box.
Look at this old post how to cast a copy from model's part. Making a copy of the front plate, remember first to fill the TC and Pilot hatches with white glue making a sort of convex cupola. This will help you to put the plastic sheet after pouring resin on a flat plane.
