There are quite a few companies that make rather decent Devils Rope (barbed wire). In particular Aber and Hudson & Allen Studiomake rather realistic 1/35 scale wire, unfortunately, if you do 1/72 scale I am afraid I am not much use. I personally like to hand twine my barbed wire; it gives a more realistic feel, than photo-etched. Although I must add that Hudson & Allen Studio effort has improved, and is no longer photo-etched, it resembles a hand twined effort. Very Nice!! All the Best Tim R
PS. If you would like to hand twine your on Devils Ropelet me know, I have a very easy method I will be glade to share with you.
-- Edited by Tim R at 18:07, 2007-10-31
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Hi Ironsides The current MilitaryModelling Has an article on a Stormtrooper model & details on making barbed wire. I'm going to try with the copper wire from the sheath of TV co-ax cable, this looks asif it will be fine enough for 1/72. I'll let you know how it goes. TTFN
I'd love to know about your method too. I recall an article on making different types of WW1 barbed wire (it was on Military Scale model?) by Stan Catchpol. It was quite involved and a lot of work, using some sort of jig, but it was the closest that can be done to the real thing.
I have typed out a rough article on making Devils Rope (Barbed Wire).
I have also threw in a few sketches, not very good or extremely accurate, But all of you are smart enough to figure it out I am sure.
Also you may be correct José about Hudson & Allen Studio not making barbed wire any more, I am not aware of this, you may try the link and the site, associated with my first reply, I think they may still have some in stock.
Any way here goes.
Making 1/35 scale *Devils Rope* Barbed Wire
Items Needed:
1.Wire Pliers
2.1 piece of sturdy wood
3.3 nails, paneling nails will work great for smaller scales, i.e. 1/72
4.Small gauge wire (Telephone cable works great, Thanks Paul)
5.Scale ruler 1/35, 1/72 etc.
First thing you will need to do is make yourself a simple jig.Take your piece of wood
{I used a 1 foot section of a 2x4} and nail a nail into each end of the piece of wood..
<fig. a.> take 1 piece of wire and attach it to one of the nails, take another piece of wire and attach it the same nail, after you have placed the appropriate amount of strands, twine each strand individually. { NOTE, if you are planning on making Turkish wire, only twine 1 strand of wire, with numerous barbs running the length of the wire}
Twining the wire, <fig. b.>this is accomplished, by taking each individual strand of wire, and performing the followingtwining technique:take your third nail, wrap the loose end of the wire around the nail. While pulling the third nail, tight {NOTE, not tight enough to break the wire} start to twist the wire, depending on which countrys wire you are trying to represent, determines how tight each strand shouldbe. Repeat technique as needed on your extra strands. Once you are finished twining your wire, you will start you braiding it.
Braidingthe wire. <fig. c.> This part is simple, take your strands of wire, and braid them as you would some ones hair, back and forth {over and under} until the desired effect is accomplished.
Barbs.This is where an extensive collection of resources is very handy.I recommend, studying period photos and buying this book:Delbert Todds; WARWIRE,The history of obstacle wire used in warfare from past to present
http://delberttrew.com/books_published.htm
it sales for $18.10.
Barb making. < fig. d.> This is fairly easy, take your strands that you have braided, and tie them off on to the second nail of your jig.After determining how many barbs you need per square foot, take your wire, and wrap around the braided wire at the right intervals, and cut it at an angle with your pliers.Now this is where the collection of information will help, as I stated above, you will need to know how many times you should wrap the wire around the braided section, and whether or not the barbs are intertwined with the wire or just wrapped around it.
Standard WW1 wire has two twined and braided wires, with at least 3 to 4 barbs per standard foot.Each barb should be wrapped twice, some later wire circa 1918 had 2 to 3 barbs per standard foot, and each barb was wrapped once.
Now I know, its just barbed wire, but some people really care if the wire they make is as close to the genuine article as possible. And to some studying Devils rope is boring, but if you are very particular about your model, then you should be a particular about what surrounds it.
Well I hope this helps, If I can be of any assistance to you with photos more information, etc, please let me no.
Hi Tim R, Thanks for the imfo on wire ...I think though that there is a problem... with scale barbed wire in 1/72 you would have barbs 1-2mm apart!....
"Sometimes things that are not true are included in Wikipedia. While at first glance that may appear like a very great problem for Wikipedia, in reality is it not. In fact, it's a good thing." - Wikipedia.
Few months ago, I tried to purchase H&A´s wire and the vendor told me it was out of production.
Hello All!
We still are in business and still carry Barbed Wire. We have finally started our own website (still a work in progress but getting better day by day!). We still carry all the products that you remember us for: snow, slush, mud, muck, asphalt, tattoos, ration boxes, etc. etc... We have also started producing a line of finished Normandy style buildings suitable and a Damaged WWII Factory for 54mm to 60mm figures. Please lets us know if you have any questions. You can find us online at our new website: www.hudsonandallen.com
Thank you!
Ericka Osen Hudson & Allen Studio 7887 36 Mile Road Bruce Township, Michigan, USA 48065 586-336-0837 www.hudsonandallen.com
HUDSON & ALLEN STUDIO: When It Absolutely, Positively Has To Look Real!
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HUDSON & ALLEN STUDIO: When It Absolutely, Positively Has to Look Real!
www.hudsonandallen.com