... wholly dependent on scale I would think. If you're building in a larger scale; ala 54mm, I would use thin brass. I've done this in the past with a Daimler vehicle. The trick is to cut a multitude of pieces in identical lengths and widths. Then using a small breaker-bar, bend each length a uniform 1mm along the linear edge at a 45 degree angle. Then glue them snugly to a blank back. The finished product should produce a nicely spaced set of downward sloping louvers. This worked for me; albeit after a failed first attempt. In 1/72 scale, you may be limited to etching, or stealing the part from a non-related kit such as the engine grill from a 1/48 tank.
Good luck, and post a few progress pics as you go along.
Phil The advantage in the other interest ie model railways means that I can tell you there is an awful lot etch louvres (for diesels etc) on the market. Give me an idea of the size you want.
Jack, thank you. I really admire 1/32 models but I just don't have the space for them, and, mistakes in that scale are much more visible than in 1/72. So I work in 1/72 (if you can call it work).
Barry, to give you an idea of the size, I have attached the plans for a 1/72 paper Tank Mark V that I will be following. Not only is it the only Mark V available in 1/72, but Clifton W McCullough's plan is excellent and easy to follow.
-- Edited by philthydirtyanimal on Saturday 3rd of October 2009 07:49:05 PM
-- Edited by philthydirtyanimal on Saturday 3rd of October 2009 07:49:29 PM
... Now that's an idea I hadn't thought of, UncleanCreature. Go out and invest in, say a Kato GP35, and cut it up for those louvers ! You could then sell the motors and frame/trucks assembly to a RR kit-basher out there.
Actually, I do have some Thomas The Tank Engine toys, er, models, laying around somewhere (they're for an African scenario. Honest!). But I don't think I could bring myself to buy a big, dirty, diesel just to get the louvres! If there is a little photoetch that would do, that's a different story.
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Hi Phil I would use microstrip ovelapped and stuck to the right sized piece of plastic card, then probarbly cut a hole in the kit to fit... I have to say i dont like doing rivets though...
I recently went on a scratchbuilding spree with my 1/35 A7V Flakpanzer and found that the local dolls house supply store has various sizes of scale louvres for windows and also various scales and sizes in steps. Some of which I believe would be perfect. You would probably just have to take your template with you and start searching.
He says they're "just rectangles of plastic card, bought from a model shop, with a louvre-like surface," but, unfortunately, doesn't give any more details.
He's in Yorkshire, I think, so it must be available in the UK.
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Thank you gentlemen for your help so far with this stage of the project. I am hopeful for a mail order source of louvres/vents/grilles. Where I live I can get a gun in Walmart, or a roof rack for kayaks, or snow tyres (sorry, 'tires'), but surprisingly no doll's house stuff.
I think the pdf file I uploaded might be up the chute, so here's the link to the page where it can be downloaded:
Just for reference, a technique I have used in the past for one off details on a model is to make a mould in plasticine.
Remembering to work in reverse, I first make an indent into the plasticine of a square or circle large than the desired size and about 3 or 4mm deep. This is to give the piece I am moulding some depth, so it doesn't break when it is removed from the plasticine.
Then I will indent the pattern/shape I require and fill with resin/car body filler/model filler or even epoxy ... the mould is often destroyed when the piece is removed, but as long as you don't mind picking the plasticine out you can obtain some nice under cut detail using this technique.
The main thing to remember is to give the item time to go off fully before trying to remove it from the plasticine ... days if need be!
If the piece has undercut detail then warm the plasticine to make it pliable. This makes it stickier and more of a clean up job, but will protect the finer detail.
Likewise if you cool the plasticine it will become stiffer and you may be able to use it several times.
If I do need to make more than one off an item, then I make a master in plastic or milliput which I can quickly push into the plasticine several times. Although no undercut detail can then be obtained this way.
I expect I am not the only one to use this technique but it doesn't harm to share any knowledge we may have gained over the years.
Thanks, Helen. My relationship with the Tank Mark V project is very much an 'on-again, off-again' affair. At the moment it is decidedly 'off' (again). There is so much work to do, converting an Airfix, that I am now strongly considering making the card model and sticking rivets, and PE fret, to it.
However, I will be using this technique you describe here (which is similar to one Ironsides described and called 'press moulding') with some heads. Yes; heads. I'm just looking for some little chaps with the right shaped heads. I desire some Wolseley pith helmets (the Gunthwaite figures might do).
Thanks for taking the time to detail the process.
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