Following the semi-disaster with the Matador Models AEC Y type, i've given up on using traditional super-glue for metal kits - what do you guys and girls use for metal kits? Or should I just bite the bullet and get a soldering iron?
I've started to use the gel superglue, after Ironsides recommended it. And you should also see Brennan's comments about glues he uses; I haven't tried it yet, but apparently if you immerse the (gel super-) glue in water it sets hard instantly and fills gaps. W^D Models recommends using either cyanoacrylate (super glue) or the 2-part epoxy glues (DIY shops would sell them more cheaply than model shops), but in both cases, they recommend going for the slow-set type rather than the instant set.
I used to use Araldite 2-part epoxy when I was a kid (gluing shields onto my Minifigs Swamp Lords, and Minot Wood Sprites!) and never got the ratio right; so it stayed tacky or didn't stick. But in the 21st Century you can get the glue as a syringe with two cylinders, so as you push the plunger parts A and B emerge in equal portions.
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there are pro's and cons..the cyano sticks quickly but it is more static and less elastic than the epoxy, therefore breaks easier. The problem of the right proportion of mixing the epoxy: even those syringes can cause problems, especially when they are 'half way'. A little too much of the hardener and bingo, and vice versa. The mixing with the little plastic scale and spatula...better take a bit more of the two components, very small drops are more difficult to mix properly. Soldering: better bite the bullet and buy a soldering station, where you can regulate the temperature. You didn't want to hear my words after the arms of a figure disappeared by the iron, being too hot. The melting point of solder and white metal lays very close to each other. If without a station, than take the iron suited for small electronic parts. The big ones will ruin your model. You can use a (very) little soldering water, but rinse that away afterwards, it will affect the paint, and certainly acrylics react on that stuff. Oh, and your family won't be that happy with the fume and scent, which isn't good for your health too, so ventilation is surely recommended! If I am telling old news and being the old pedantic again: sorry!!
R0b Get some Araldite the 2 part one which is quick setting. It gives you that bit of extra time to make sure everything is OK. Available in B&Q and lots of other places.
I definatly prefer superglue gel over regular super glue or epoxy or anything else really as it has a number of advantages, doesnt run everywhere you dont want it, can be applied on a cocktail stick and cleaned up the same way doesnt seem to stick instantly so you have a little time but is still fairly quick... it will also stick almost everything....for small work its excellent...
The current gel Im using is flexible its called "Ultra Gel" from pattex/henkel so should be available under the loctite name as well.... Previous brand I used was "Bindulin" Gel very good too....
Hi Ironsides, I think that's the most practical method too, as it's mainly small parts we're talking about. The gel is indeed strong enough, not that messy as the epoxy and not that risky as soldering.
Hi Rob you might try slo zap thick superglue (30 secounds +) available from hannants more expensive but a big 1oz bottle.. I havent used this but it sounds good to me you can also get an accelerator to speed it up, and a debonder in case you cock it up or stick yourself to the model..... To prevent superglue from drying out store in a freezer, to remove superglue acetone should work....