Landships II

PDA · Legend

Modelling Help Please

Ironsides · Legend

Hi�PDA Microscale do a decal solution that should remove the decals without damaging the paint... removal instruction are on the back of the bottle..

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-1&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=1

These are the best products for a painted on look to decals gives an excellent finish

Cheers wink

LincolnTanker · Commander in Chief

For water I'd have a word with Diomichi, and look at model rail sites.

http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?aBID=63528&p=3&topicID=41535752

Not done�water myself.

-- Edited by LincolnTanker on Saturday 30th of April 2011 05:06:48 PM

baldwin · Hero

PDA

Lookup the Woodland Scenics range,an American firm that sells lot's of scenic stuff. I have used thier products and they are excellent.

They have a good website.

Paul B · Lieutenant

Hi PDA

I can't help with old decals (I usually just paint over them - it often happened in reality!) but for our WW1 game we had a problem with dirty water in shellholes. We tried resin and varnish, and neither of them worked really well. But then 3 days before the show, someone joked "what about cold tea?" We tried it, and it worked a treat. It looks perfect, and as the shell holes were lined with the previously abortive resin/varnish it didn't soak in. At the end of the show, we just soaked it all up with kitchen roll and hey presto! Now I realise this may not work for a diorama as that's on permanent show, but it worked for us!

For furniture in 1/72, try Tim at Frontline. He's got a load of furniture, fireplaces etc - and even a piano - that look great. we've used them for a Berlin 45 game before and they look the business.

Hope this helps!

Cheers

�

Paul

Tankcommander · Colonel

Hi,

I've bought "Still water" Nbr 26230 (aguas tranquilas) from AV Vallejo, cost about 12Euro/200ml ...and tried it: looks like clear varnish. So I filled the trench wole with the stuff and painted it with semi-mat humbrol (mixed different colours). I find looks OK, it was even possible to make "fresh blood" from a victim, flowing in the water ( cry ).

Furniture, I Don't think there was much left in the houses, if yes, why not scratchbuild them or use the ones in your pic, looks great.

Nice WE,

DJ

PDA · Legend

Thanks everybody.

Paul, you must mean Blitz Bits at Frontline, and they certainly look interesting.

Ironsides, I expected that decals solvent to be stupidly expensive, but $3; you can't argue with that!

Tankcommander, aguas tranquilas from AV Vallejo also looks like good stuff at a good price.

Baldwin and Lincoln, I haven't steeled myself to looking around model train sites yet; they never seem to lay them out well, or I am really bad at guessing where they put stuff! But I agree, scenics is what model train people have been doing for donkey's years, so I'll just have to gird my loins.

Thanks again, everyone.

MK1 Nut · Hero

Hi

I can't help with the decal issue, but I have in the past made a model with mud/water effects.

�

The technique I used was simply a slow curing two part epoxy, which I then mixed with either paint and/or grit, depending on the effect I was after.

The main trick I found was to use a slow curing epoxy, as this gives you time to pour it, plus it allows some of the pigment to settle a bit.

I used Devcon epoxy back then as it was the only clear one I could get hold off, but there is a growing range available now.

The most important thing is to test, test and test some more, and always try to use as little colour as possible... you can always build it up in layers if you're unsure of how clear/muddy you want the effect. The last layer can always be pure clear epoxy if you have reached the effect you are after, but need more depth.

I had a quick look around and found this video 'how to' that is pretty good!

Helen x