Here are screen shots from the 3D model of my MkI male. I based it on Helen's excellent drawings, plus the collection of walk-around photos available here and elsewhere on the web. I will consider re-doing the tail wheel assembly when she issues her drawings of it. I started on the female sponsons, but stopped when I realized the drawings I have are inconsistent with photos. Again, I will wait for Helen's drawings. I left the grenade screen off; I could model the frame in card, but it seemed better to leave that to the modeler to make one from wire.
Wayne
-- Edited by wayne on Sunday 10th of March 2013 05:03:37 PM
I can second that TCT! I have managed to do a "tin-toy" Rhomboid in paper to try and learn how to do paper models before i try any of Wayne's little beauties.
The beta-build of the white model is done. I have some tweaks to make, then start coloring. The tailwheel assembly is so fiddly and delicate, I might add a simplified version.
With a few fairly minor changes I can make the MkII and MkIII from this MkI.
I am still battling with the female sponsons, and hoping Helen gets around to them soon.
Very good. The tail does indeed look tricky, particularly the wheels. Fortunately, if one opts for a Gaza tank, the tail can be omitted! Mind you, that misses the point, in some ways...
Just wanted to say how nice it is to see a MK1 in card model form. I really like what you've done.
Oh but do remember to look at my plans section for updates, I am still learning about my favourite tank, even all these years later. Yesterday I noticed 'another' flaw in my plans... I've missed out the pistol port in the lower part of the hull at the front of the tank.
Helen x
The female sponson I'm afraid is on hold until such time as I can get to Bovi to take measurements. Unfortunately I can't see this happening any time soon. Sorry.
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Monday 25th of March 2013 02:15:11 PM
I understand time constraints - I have a few also. I might take a "stab" at the female sponsons. No problem as I can pretty easily re-do the affected parts later.
I noticed the absence of the lower bow pistol port, but left it off. I'll add it next time around. I found the revised sponson angles and the rear face correction. I'll make comparisons and then revisions as necessary.
As a Senior Structural Engineer, I have to say that your set of drawings is a masterpiece, very easy to work with.
The bow pistol port doesnt seem to show on many photos. It appears to be only a few inches blow the prow and a few inches port of the centerline. In the photos I found quickly on LII I dont see a rotating cover plate such as are seen on the other pistol ports around the cupola and sponsons, etc. It wouldnt make a lot of sense to leave that one uncovered.
The basic model overall gray MkI Male is pretty much finished except for instructions and a few tweaks. I need to lighten up the gray a couple of shades.
I will try to adjust the gray and build the MkI Female this week sometime.
For camouflage, I found the "Clan Leslie" in the old Profile, but those are a bit suspect in general. There are some B/W camo schemes on the web and i am attaching the two I found. Are they from the Airfix model? Any other suggestions?
The bow pistol port info was a great help. Thanks.
Your photo and the one from Ironsides show muted colors of tan, brown and medium green. Do you believe these photos were originally in color, or were they snapped as B/W and "colorized" later? The colors are also similar to what we see on the museum vehicle photo you sent with the bow pistol port message. I can understand the colors fading with time and exposure to the elements, so they might have been darker and a bit brighter when fresh. I do not see garish any blues or yellows. The full multi-views imply that someone has evidence of patterns and colors on all major surfaces - maybe a partial view or two supplemented by lots of imagination?
Do you know whether the Osprey MkI book has color plates that might be of use in this?
MkIs pic is a paget plate by Frank Hurley apparantly taken in 1917, colours look washed out to me but its possible to do some color adjustment so its probarbly the best bet, the one I posted could very well be tinted? but does look very similar... I cant say I've seen any otheres....
Wayne, in my opinion the colour plate in the Osprey MkI book which depicts camouflage painted tanks is not particularly accurate, but primary sources about the colours employed are very limited. The best written description I have found was written by a newpaper reporter in 1917. He recalled observing the tanks near dusk on the evening of Sept. 14, 1916, and wrote "The brutes were all painted in blotched reptilian colours, hues of rattlesnake and iguana, yellow and dull grey and black and mottled brown, and in the fading light, against the brown-green earth they were strangely invisible". Part of the confusion about colour stems from the fact that the camouflage paint applied to the tanks in Britain (possibly red and yellow ochre with shades of green) was overpainted in more muted tones immediately after the tanks arrived in France.
I suspect that the colour photos in the previous posts are hand tinted reproductions of monochrome originals.
There are only a few photos which show these tanks from above, but none that I have seen show camouflage paint on the roof of the hull, cab or sponsons.
Each of the three tank companys which saw action on the Somme appears to have painted a slightly different camo scheme on their tanks. Regarding the Airfix painting guides seen above, the one on the right shows the "C" Company style, and the one on the left shows the "A" Company style.
Glad you found the original photo I posted... I couldn't rmember where it came from!
The one I posted I had already had a o at tweaking the colours, but it's not easy when there are no definable colours to go by.
I found an Autochrome photo of a later MKIV, this I could guess the colour a little better as there are things we know the colour of in the picture. The stripes on the front horn are red and wight, sky blue as there are shadows, trees green, etc. It is still though a guessing game. More a feeling of what's right, nothing more. Good fun though. Intersting is that it looks greeny brown, but this appears to be dust, as it looks greenish where the muck has been cleaned away from the tanks symbol thingy.
As for MK1's, it's interesting to hear about them changing the camouflage in France. It helps explain the variation. Not a subject I've looked into much... think I'm going to have to look into it a bit more.
Interstingly the surviving MK1 had a camouflage hatch 'before' it got to Bovi. It had the classic black outline type camo... makes me wonder if it was original and still in place. Maybe they got the colours from it to paint the sides.
Greeny brown? I see no green in it, rather a warm sandy brown. This, of, course, only goes to show that even when people are describing the same colour, everyone has a different description for the same thing. The colour is certainly reminiscent of Lodestar III, though.
Greeny brown? I see no green in it, rather a warm sandy brown. This, of, course, only goes to show that even when people are describing the same colour, everyone has a different description for the same thing. The colour is certainly reminiscent of Lodestar III, though.
Our monitors need to be colour syncronised for us all to see the same colour, otherwise what I see is not what you see...
Looks good, I think though that the red/brown needs to be more red, the Linen wants to be paled right down... but I like the green. Colours are such a personal thing, but normally the rule of thumb is start with as near the right colours as you can (They were often mixed from pigment and what ever oil was to hand when painted in the feild)... then pale it down for a scale effect.
This is the post Rhomboid is talking about... Camo it looks really interesting.
Can't wait to see the final model.
Helen x
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Thursday 4th of April 2013 12:26:42 PM
Here is the first part, with my interpretation of the Airfix color diagram. The yellow is Humbrol #74 Linen - it looks pretty garish. I'm thinking I could tone it down to a tan or light ochre color. The rest of it looks reasonable.
Wayne, check out the "Solomon's Camouflage" thread on page 2 of the Camouflage and Markings sub-forum for info on the Humbrol equivalents for Royal Engineers paint colours from WW1.
For some reason I am unable to download the WPS file. Can you repost it? Are there plans to collect all the camo info and post it on the LSII website? It would be most interesting.
One of the replies in the referenced thread included mixes for humbrol paints. I will "sample" the color swatches from the Humbrol website and weight the the RGB values to arrive at an approximation. I'll report what I come up with.
In the meantime, I have started assembling the MkI Female in a lighter shade of gray than I used on the male. It is going slowly due to other demands on my time, plus a cat and a pair of Scottish terriers each of whom seems to think it has first priority on my attention.
Dragonfly.2 has colors matching the Fredriksson's burnt umber and yellow ochre. The brown is redder than the dark earth and the yellow ochre is more toned-down compared to the linen. Dragonfly.3 is like 2, but with a partially transparent dark gray overspray to tone down and darken the colors a bit.
The beta-build of the MkI Female is going pretty well. Photos attached show it without the tail wheels.
Designing the sponsons went quickly with the help of the photos and sketch you sent.
I'll post more of the tail wheel assembly when it is done. I made some changes, but it will look pretty much like the one on the male. I added a very simplified tail wheel assembly alternative to the detailed one, but it looks sorta klunky.
Glad the info was helpfull, just wish I had the measurements to make an accurate plan of the female sponsons.
Don't hate me... but I think the cut in between the two machine gun sheilds might be to deep. Push the rear gun against the foward one, and there should be only a little gap between the gun and the back of the cut in. It's such a hard part of the tank to work out by eye... really must get some measurements somewhen this year.
The cut-in was a problem all along. It ties into the diameter of the gun shields. If I understand correctly, the two gun shields should be larger, so they pretty much fill the sponson, with only very small spaces at the front, rear and cut in. hmmm... Well, I planned on re-doing the female sponsons when you finish the drawings anyway. Pending that, I'll see what I can do without a major re-do .
For what it's worth, I go back and modify my old models when I see a better way to do something. What we have now with your drawings has me thinking I really need to redo my MkIV and MkV using the more accurate side frames and improved sponson design. Then maybe sorta slide into a MkV* and MkV**. So many projects, so little time.
One of the great things about card models is the ability to tweak, or even overhaul, a design without a lot of fuss and bother. No need to re-tool.
More photos, showing the tail wheel and the finished MkI Female. The last photo is of both the MkI's.
Changing the cut-in proved to a minor job. I made the shields a tad larger and added the cut-in filler plate. Took maybe half an hour. The photos show a new sponson next to the gray model.
It's good to see how they go together. The tailgear is tricky enough to draw, let alone work out how to turn into something 3D. Lovint the pic of the two tanks together... think I prefer the lighter grey... but darker might be more correct... somewhere in the middle??
You've done a fantastic job with these models... so nice to see some Mk1s coming to life. How about Mother next? :)
Here are some pix of the MkI female, C4 Chablis. This time, I am coloring the edges, so it will take me a bit longer than usual to finish it. It looks like I have a few tweaks to make in the camouflage. I picked C5 Creme de Menthe for the male.
I haven't yet decided apply a mid-range gray to both basic models. As for Mother, hmmm, I hear the rivet pitch is smaller than on the production MkI, so I would have to re-do a lot of rivets. No promises on that.
Beg pardon Wayne, but are the tracks on the wrong way around? If the black lines mark the divisions between plates then it would appear so, because the grey bands indicating the raised tread (the Toblerones, as some call them) are right next to the dark lines, which would put them at the leading edges of links rather than the trailing ones where they ought to be.
Re one of your earlier posts, Wayne, in which Helen advised toning down the ochre that you considered garish, it has just occurred to me looking at the two colour photos in early posts that the three colours are (ignoring fading, etc) remarkably similar to the colours of the landscape in the second of thwe pics; perhaps the ochre should be changed to something more like stone, using the pale scrub grass for guidance? It would make sense for the colours of the camo scheme to have been taken from those of the Somme landscape, and the second colour period photo has just the right stone/pale yellow, green and russet colours to match the tanks in both colour pics.
Three more pics taken in natural light. Artificial light, like that in most of my pics, sometimes makes the colors brighter than natural light. That said, "ochre" should have a bit of yellow in it anyway. Otherwise, the color used would have been described as "sand", or "khaki".
Rhomboid's paper indicates that all were repainted in more muted colors upon arrival in France, but the eye-witness descriptions of the repainted MkI's are still of odd colors. The brutes were all painted in blotched reptilian colours, hues of rattlesnake and iguana, yellow and dull grey and black and mottled brown, and in the failing light, against the brown-green earth, they were strangely invisible.
"A" company camo has larger patches and smoother edges, and thin black lines within the larger patches instead of dividing them. I might use a more sand-like color when I do one of those.
I turned the "toblerones" around with minimal effort and will re-print that sheet before I make the male MkI.
The second colour period photo shows much the same pale sandy colour as the first; The first is an 'A' Company tank, the second a 'C' Coy machine. I personally would go for a pale sandy colour if I were to paint a Mk I model, but I take your point about the lighting: looks rather garish in artificial light, but much easier on the eye outdoors.