Thanks for having a look and for your comment. Your opinion are important for me
The pipes are simply made with metallic wire
To be honest there are more than in the real thing, due to the diameter of the wire. There is a photo in the Owners'Workshop Manual ( p.37 ) showing the pipes are about 30 and I made about 40, even though the ones close to the edges are covered, resulting in 35-36 visible pipes in my radiator.
As a reference for this building I'm using drawings like these ( I'm not sure if there is any copyright, so they are "for discussion purposes only" ) :
None of them is 1/35, and you can see that there are discrepancies among them ( as usually, I apologize for my bad English, hope you can understand what I mean ).
However it's pretty easy to change the dimension of the drawings on the laptop to make them coincident with the hull of the Emhar Mark IV.
So these drawings give an overall idea of the arrangement and the ratio of magnitude of the different elements.
Furthermore, the Owners' Workshop is really useful, together with pics found in the web and, of course, here in Landship
Anyway, you're right, maybe be the thing will look different once the parts will be mounted, otherwise they will be slightly altered to get a better look.
Hi Gilles
Glad you like it, and hope that can be of some use..maybe should be a faster building
Hope you keep on following and helping me.
Cheers.
Luca.
-- Edited by Luca on Sunday 3rd of May 2015 02:03:51 PM
You're kind, but at the moment I didn't plan to make resin copies. Above all since these parts are conceived for the Emhar kit, and I guess this kit is not so..popular today, when Takom and Tamiya released their own newer and better models.
Helen, thank you.
as usually you're a valuable source of infos
Hi Diego
I'll shortly post some more photos of the radiator.
In the meantime, I made that for you. Not a masterpiece, but I'm a better drawer than a writer
Hope that can be of some use.
The details will be better described with the photos.
Regards.
Luca.
-- Edited by Luca on Sunday 10th of May 2015 03:29:31 PM
I built the second radiator. The pipes are pretty..messy, since they will be almost completely hidden
The bolts of the radiators should be hexagonal bolts..I just made them with white varnish
Next step to join the couple
The red lines border the plates that complete the ensemble.
I have some doubt concerning the rim inside the green lines..I have the idea to remove it (and also the one on the other side, of course) since i think that I got misled by a poor photo (and by my poor eyes). I rather guess that the back of the top of the case is a sloping plate..MMh, some more work
And now..another revised fault inside the red lines
Here are some photos of the ensemble at the moment
Luca, thanks for the sketches, hope to put them to good use sooner or later!
What do you think of the Emhar kit regarding the accurcy of the general outlines? I shall do new unditching rails for it as I find the provided ones much simplifyed.
Great work!!! Keep on it!!!!!!!
D.
Placing the Emhar kit on the drawings the general outlines and the inclination of the plates look quite correct. The big fault of the kit is the well knowm uncorrect angle between the rear and the outer wall of the sponsons.
Concerning the unditching rails, sure the ones of the kit are not only simplified but uncorrect, too.
As a hero, you certainly know the posts of the experts of the forum on this subject
Hi Brad
hope you are a patient guy
Hi Maarten
nice to hear from you
Hi Martin
your words are much appreciated..and your tips concerning the mud-chutes too..
Ok mates, in the next post some photos of the late progress
Checking the Owners' Workshop (p. 140) I noticed a photo showing that there are only three holes on the front plate of the structure where the driver's and the commander's seats are located.
First I made six holes because of..symmetry with the upper plate, but since it looks to be wrong I filled three of them.
I built the primary gear lever and its..guide. Underneath the guide there is a piece where the bottom of the lever is articulated. Unfortunately I was only able to reproduce the upper part of it because of lack of references.
So, every info concerning this area would be really useful and appreciated
I built the commander's and driver's seats without the backrest not to copy the photos of the Owners' Workshop but since that will make easier having a look at the inside once the model will be completed.
Finally, I made the levers linked to the magneto and to the carburator and their bracket. I'll build the lower section of this mechanism when the engine will be in place..
The guide of the primary gear lever..
..and the primary gear lever.
The seats (without the backrest).
Two views of the levers linked to the magneto and to the carburator and their bracket.
Here are some photos of the ensemble at the moment
First of all have a question for you experts of the forum.
I purchased this by a famous Polish producer..
..but I have some doubt, since the gun looks to be too much tapered (hope this is the right word) when compared to these photos that I found here in Landships..
The real guns look to be actually tapered, but not as much as the "Polish" one..
I wasn't able so far to have a look at the real thing (was two times in Bruxelles, but both of them were unlucky trips) and, more, I'm not so used to WWI tanks, albeit to build this MK IV is my dream as a modeller..
So, I'd be glad to have your opinions, if this piece worth to be used..
Part two to post a little progress, the brake and clutch pedals and their swinging arms
The pedals..
...and the hand lever linked to the clutch pedal.
Here are some photos of these parts, dry fitted to the front plate of the subframe
As for the radiator, that's a neverending story..
Had to narrow it, to make it fit properly to the real wall of the Emhar kit. The good thing is that now the pipes look more like the real thing..
I added the fan housing, and built the fan itself..a pure fantasy job, since I have no idea how the real thing looks and, moreover, nothing will be visible in the finished model. A waste of time, I know
Apologies for the poor photo..
More details to be added, of course. I won't call anymore a thing done
Diego, Thorsten, Brad, thanks for your kind words.
It's fine to have your feedback and support
In these days I started to work on another area of the model, i.e.the rear horns.
I have to thank Mrg since he made mention of the mud-chute cutouts, so I made them first.
I don't really know how much will be visible inside the horns in the finished model, anyway I built the return rollers and the riveted plates..better than the full vacuum
Then I modified the sprocket wheel to make it fit to the Takom workable tracks
Not a refined work, however far better than the original
Very happy to see you will make corrections on the exterior too!
The Ehmar kit is not such bad but cannot pass without those improvements.
It will be a materpiece, keep posting!
Incredible work, Luca, as usual! I've always wondered myself why the kit ommited that exacy area of detailing, being a somewhat easy portion of the hull. The Airfix kit has a better mud chute than the Emhar!
I agree Lostiznaos, the kit needs to be updated as for the exterior, mainly when you compare it to the today standards..
On the other hand, I always feel grateful to Emhar since we had the chance to built WWI models (not very expensive, too, I'm thinking to the resin ones) at least until the WWI centenary did "motivate" other producers.
And sure, it's possible to get superb models using Emhar kits (you know that well, your Whippet is great!)
Diego, we were already talking about the faults of the Emhar Mk IV (the sponsons are the greater of them) and you are right in pointing the lack of mud-chute cutouts out.
However, it's a pretty simple job to revise this kind of fault.
I had to correct something as for the rear horn, i.e. the mud-chute cutout and the bulkhead inside..
The yellow line underlines the relocated rivets. You can also notice the slight modification of the mud-chute cutout.
A big fault I was aware of at the very last moment was the uncorrect location of the round bolted plate and the round opening behind it. Now they are properly located
In the photo above the track guides can be seen. and the outer side of the bulkhead, too.
RC accessories are the source of the wheels that I used to reproduce the transmission system, together with two scratchbuilt wheels made with plasticard..and a scratchbuilt chain (and now you know why it took one month, to submit a new post..). Not a precise reproduction of the real thing, but similar enough, if you think that just a bit of this ensemble will be visile in the finished model.
The position of the round bolted plate has to be modified on the outer side of the rear horns, too
Some work was needed to relocate many rivets on the sides of the model.
Moreover, some of them are hex-head ones..
The interior of the rear horn.
The red arrow points out the carter to be placed over the rear section of the chain, once the assembly will be definitive.
Here are some photos of a test arrangement, with the subframe and the differential case
The yellow arrow of the photo above points out where the screw of the track tension adjusting system must be located. The place is empty since I wasn't able to reproduce these screws in a decent way so far
I have to apologize. Sometimes I post photos of details that later I change, since I understand that they are uncorrect or inaccurate. It's only because I want to share a WIP work..
Ok mates, now it's time for holydays
In August I'll be in Cornwall and, on the way back to London Stansted, I'll visit (it's going to be my first time) Bovington.
Hope to spend a full day there (two, if Astrid will agree) and maybe I'll meet some of you. That would be fine!
I'll be around the MkIV and the Whippet, taking pictures
However want to enjoy my holydays, and hope that you enjoy yours.
It's wonderful work Luca, far better than anything I could do. I have one question. This concerns the square plate over the (redundant) hole for the filler for the envelope radiator in the rear hull. It seems to me from your photos that you have this supported on pins at each corner and so standing away from the rear hull. If so, this incorrect. As your model has twin tubular radiators the square plate should be bolted straight onto the rear plate.
As for the differences between vehicles with either envelope or tubular radiator, the Owners' Workshop says "An expert with a trained eye can distinguish between the two from the outside at the back because they had different filling and draining points, although this requires skilled and careful scrutiny.."
You are that kind of expert and I like to take advantage from your "trained eye"
Anyway, because of my poor English, let me know if I correctly understood what you're referring to..
Actually in my model the plate (the one in the centre of the photo above) stands away from the rear hull, being supported on four pins (red arrows), because of that step inside the yellow lines..
I presume I was misled by this photo of Liberty (I insert it for discussion purposes only)
The arrow point out where the "famous" step seems to be..
I'm going to bolt the plate straight onto the rear hull as you say.
Are the four bolts at the corners of the plate the right way to do it?
Thanks again for your feedback Gwyn.
Regards
Luca
-- Edited by Luca on Monday 27th of July 2015 06:41:51 AM
I believe that all that was done with twin tubular radiator equipped Mark IVs was that the square-ish cover plate was repositioned immediately over the hole. The pins were dispensed with. So looking at your model the plate you have is much too rectangular - it doesn't reach the top of the hull but stops under the bolts at the top of the rear plate. Hope this helps. Congratulations with your model - it looks very good.
Ok Gwyn, I understand. So I have to remove the upper area of the plate to make it more..squarish, then bolt it under the upper bolt line of the rear hull plate..
Hope that you'll keep on following and checking this thread
your model is getting better and better! I admire your power of endurance to build the finest details in such a quality!
For the plate protecting the radiator filler hole, you can have a look at pictures of Bovington's Mark IV, which has the plate mounted at a distance as for envelope radiator tanks. But the plate's dimensions and the relative position in height should be the same, if it has not been replaced with a different one at the restorations. As far as I can tell, it agrees with the plate on Lodestar III.