Poor old Mk.IV's been sitting in the loft since I started it in 2011 so it was about time to get on and finish it.
The Mr.X corrected Mk.IV sponson masters were made for this model and a set had been duly fitted along with drilled out gun barrels and resin tracks from the MK.I kit.
The unditching beam rails were remade from the kit parts by cutting them apart, reversing them and bending and folding sections to get the correct profiles, I had bought a pack of Slaters narrowest angle to do this with but it was still too wide!
A new stowage box and rear armour plates were made from 10 thou sheet and Archer rivets.
After priming with automotive grey primer the model was given a base coat of Tamiya XF-52 flat earth, all the panel lines and shadow areas were then sprayed black using the finest setting on my airbrush and the whole thing given a couple of light coats of XF-52. This is a variation on pre-shading but I find that by pre-shading onto the primer then adding the colour coats I quite often lose all the black by the time the base colour has covered the primer... I'm not saying this is a better method but it works for me!
Next XF-52 lightened with XF-60 was lightly sprayed into the center of each panel to enhance the highlight/lowlight effect.
So now just a clear coat, decals and weathering to go. Â
You make it seem so easy! I wish I had half your talent!
 You're too kind! I'm just winging it most of the time... sometimes it pans out and sometimes it goes completely wrong, you just don't get to see the ones that go pear shapedÂ
__________________
Has anyone else noticed "new and improved" seems to mean it doesn't work as well as it used to?
So the Mk.IV male has been clear coated and a black pin wash applied with a 000 brush followed by the decals. I decided to go with the kit decals for this one as a) I think F56 has some interesting markings and b) after going cross eyed making up markings for the Mk.IV supply tanks and a Mk.IV female I couldn't be bothered to do it again!
With the decals dry they were clear coated to seal them ready the next stage, an oil wash. Â
Â
-- Edited by CrashandBern on Monday 28th of July 2014 08:16:26 PM
Burnt umber oil wash applied, this helps to tone down the bright white of the decals and blend in the black pin wash... hopefully tying everything in to the base colour.
You know I've never noticed the shell ports on the bottom of the doors before... I may still be able to correct it, thanks for the heads up. I guess I'm must be a bit odd but I quite like the Emhar Mk.IV for all it's faults Â
Rob the resin tracks are my own I did them originally for my Emhar Mk.I conversion which I'm building as a supply tank.
-- Edited by CrashandBern on Saturday 2nd of August 2014 07:16:14 PM
__________________
Has anyone else noticed "new and improved" seems to mean it doesn't work as well as it used to?
Ok some stowage added, I've also made shell ports for the sponson doors but not photographed them yet.
I'm playing around with ideas for the base, you may recognize the building as the Airfix European Ruined Cafe. The surface detail is first rate but the castings are pretty thick so I'll have to thin down the exposed wall sections, I've also reduced the amount of damage to the front section as I didn't want a totally demolished building.
For a resin building it's pretty cheap and as most of my dioramas only need a facade it becomes two buildings, now that's seriously cost effective! I'm still not sure if I should go with small base one building set up or the slightly larger base with two buildings, guess I'll keep playing until I make my mind up Â
Thanks Paul, to be honest I bought several sheets of it years ago from a hobbyshop that's now gone bust and I can't remember who made it.
There's a good chance it's Slater's as they do a whole range of embossed plastikard - slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/embossed.php
Hope that helps.
__________________
Has anyone else noticed "new and improved" seems to mean it doesn't work as well as it used to?