Ok I've put this off far too long. I am 'Finally' starting on a 1/16 scale version of the MK1 Tank. :)
Up to now I have had fears of my 3D abilities letting me down and causing there to be compromises I just wouldn't be happy with... well a few years of working in CAD 3D, I'm 90% through my 1/6 scale build and have dealt a number of times with Shapeways printing company... and I now feel ready.
Nothing much to show right now other than lots of basic building blocks, the details I already have, so for now it is about sorting out the mechanics of it all. The idea of this build is to produce a 1/16 scale kit that can be downloaded and with off the shelf accessories provide a working model. < NOTICE this last part, there will be NO internal details, this is going to be a Radio Controlled Model.
Basically this post is about pushing myself to get this done, once posted I'm sure there will be enough people asking "Is it ready yet?" :)
Wish me luck!
Helen x
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Friday 31st of October 2014 12:59:46 PM
I wish you all the best with the project, if you ever get stuck on something just ask as these projects can tax the mind in certain parts of such a build especially the mechanics ie tracks and wheels Tec.
good luck with your project. I have nothing but admiration for the work you have done with your 1/6th scale Mk1, so I have no doubt you will excel in this too........go for it!!!!
Kev
-- Edited by m83 on Friday 31st of October 2014 03:53:42 PM
I'm looking forward to this challenge, I already have lots of ideas scribbled here and there on paper scraps, try and get something to show you next week.
The basic idea is to include the drop out wheel sets like on my 1/6 model. I like being able to undo a bolts and lift up the tank, leaving the wheels there. It saves lifting it on its side or upside down. Also the the U-Bolts that hold the axles can be scale none working ones.
For drive I am thinking either Henlong or Tamiya Tank Gearboxes, which drive the back wheels via an extra set of gears that reduce the speed down to the required crawling pace. The rear drive wheel and gears will be held by a frame that is also removable from the model. The thinking being that it can all be tested and maintained away from the model.
This will obviously not be a cheap model, I will try to use every millimetre of space to keep the price down. Interlocking and layered parts to make every penny count... but it is still a big thing to print.
Having said that, it will be pretty damn awesome when built, big as a Tiger Tank, but with loads more personality. :)
Anyway, lots of ideas, better get something in 3D CAD to show.
Sorry for vanishing from this thread, the complexity and the off putting final cost caused me to put the idea to one side... where I then forgot about it.
With work progressing on the 1/6 scale model I recently decided to have another look at this project. A better understanding of how Shapeways cost their printing has meant a small saving, although I would still se a 1/16 scale MK1 Tank costing around £700. Plus drive gear, electrics, etc.
One thing I did find out is didn't have to break the model down into so many parts. My belief was I was saving space and therefor money. Now armed with the correct Bounding Box sizes they use, I have been able to reduce the part numbers and I hope the ease of construction. It has also eased the price a little.
Anyhow, this is the progress I have made so far. No detail yet, all about getting the build and break down right first.
The side horns will glue and pin together, then these will glue and screw to the lower body hull. The outer skin will attach by some means I have yet to decide upon... any ideas welcome. Maybe tabs and screws, or possibly tabs and magnets. The thinking behind removing the outer skin is the ease of access it will provide to all the working parts, like chain drive and rollers. The side will also trap all the axle pins in place. Remove the sides and pull out the pins and axles, simple removal of wheels and rollers. How well this work in reality, we will only know when the first one gets printed.
Helen x
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Wednesday 1st of July 2015 05:11:18 PM
that's a great project! I'll follow with interest!
Wouldn't it be more cost-efficient to get the flat panels laser-cut, and adding the printed details (you could even print rivet heads and put them into lasered holes) afterwards?
Also: Did you verify that the 3D-printed parts last for some years? I have read different reports, some say that the material is stable when painted properly, others say they will get instable after some time... but I have not had the time to research about the different materials. I'd just think such questions are more critical for parts which need to carry loads, it would be a shame to see those £700 breaking apart...
Thanks for the interest, I will try and add to this page a bit more often now.
Simple answer to laser cutting over printing... about a third cheaper to get it cut. Only thing is, it would then mean me setting myself up to box and post to people all over the world. I would rather avoid that and just produce something that anyone can just order online. It is more of a challenge to me than a means to make money.
As far as degradation of plastic parts is concerned, 'any' plastic that is not protected in some way from UV Light will go brittle with age. If you simply paint those parts that are exposed to sunlight, then there is no reason why the parts shouldn't last many years. I now have printed parts that are around three years old and holding together fine. One thing to remember is that running any model in freezing conditions is more likely to result in breaks than when it is warm.
The strength in a model is in the materials chosen and its shape, I try as best I can to infill edges when they are not visible and double up thicknesses in areas likely to be under load. I have already altered the model in this way since the last screen grabs I posted.
I brush all my 3D printed parts all over with a liquid cement to improve the bonds in the outer surface. This I find on home printed parts to be very important if you want to avoid it splitting into layers under load. With home printed parts the general rule is, single outer layer for detail, minimum two layers for strength. Infill is a compromise also between printing time and strength.
Plastic will go brittle in time. Tamiya RC Kits that can now be twenty to thirty years old are now starting to suffer the dreaded plastic crumble. It normally though only effects small areas where there is load, like axles or screws and can be repaired easily enough.
Helen x
-- Edited by MK1 Nut on Thursday 2nd of July 2015 10:35:15 AM
