Even with the errors, these are good looking kits. So many extra pieces too, depending on how you build them - spare MGs of both types, spare grousers, spare tails & trolleys that could be kitbashed into industrial diorama accessories elsewhere.
My only gripes, so far, are the narrow cab & one piece hatches*, and the parts breakdown of the MG shrouds on the female which are split down the middle with the barrel on one half - one piece with a plug in barrel stub would've been a lot better.
*on the subject of cabs & hatches, I know we have some skilled CAD & 3D creators on the board. Has anyone thought of designing the 3 correct width cab components & hatches with separate vision flaps, and then selling them via Shapeways??? I know Shapeways stuff can be pricey depending on size/complexity but - even with a margin built in - these are likely to be modest purchases, saving both time and a lot of faff sourcing correct Archer rivets.
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"You there on the port!". "S'gin actually, but thanks for noticing [hic]".
I think 3D printing still is not good enough for this subject. It needs too much cleanup (which destroys the detail), and the material is not nice to work with, too. Plus, it's expensive.
Yesterday I started a new 3D model of the cab taking measures both from Helen's drawings and Takom model. They are slightly different so some little adjustment is needed. The side pistol port is only an attempt and I have to adjust it. I redid the whole front parts to have an easier fit so I will cut the to little horns where actually the cab fit.
I engraved the inner part to reduce front plate thickness near hatches. Not still correct but better then the original 1.2 mm thickness.
I think I will print two version: the first one without rivets and bolts but with holes to insert Model Master resin rivets, the other with rivets.
Thorst is right when he say 3D printing is expensive but I don't agree about quality. I printed some parts for an Italian Army M60A1 based on AFV model and they are really nice after appling primer and a little sanding. Very important is to know what the 3D printer can do and what can not. Rivets may be an exaple of a difficult part to reproduce.
-- Edited by Pierantonio on Thursday 10th of December 2015 09:47:20 PM
About 3D printing: this is the new suspension system of Takom St Chamond now I am painting. It was printed by Shapeways with frost detail resin (springs are home made on brass). Belive me or not they look very nice after painting.
If this was a WW2 Tiger Tank they would be put against a wall and shot!
The annoying thing is that as no one else seems to be bothering in 1/35 WW1 Tanks to any degree, we have to be thankful for what we get.
Surely Helen, in this day and age, with the amount of data/plans/photographs popping up on the internet, and with researchers like yourself sharing information, you would think model companies could get it right!!! Plus it's the 100th anniversary of The Great War, so surely they must see a potential in making kits people are interested in??
I model in 1/76th - 1/72nd, and we braille scalers haven't even got a decent Rolls Royce armoured car in plastic!!!
If you're reading this Mr. Airfix/Emhar/Dragon/S-Model, I'd like the following in small scale plastic!!
1: 1914 Rolls Royce Armoured Car
2: Saint Chamond French tank (any mark/model will do)
3: Schneider French tank (any mark/model will do)
Thank you Masterbox for the Austins and MkI & II tanks...but I hope you're planning more kits soon?
Grant
P.S. Off my soapbox and rant over!!!
I would like to see listed in 1/15- 1/16 scale as well, If you want things to happen, email Takom and Tamyia I have regarding this scale size or Facebook them.
-- Edited by Granty101 on Wednesday 25th of November 2015 04:08:50 PM
-- Edited by BC312 on Tuesday 15th of December 2015 06:09:35 PM
I will upload the STL file after printing and checking a prototype.
I think doing that before the end of this month.
Be careful the 3d printed cab is very expensive.
Brilliant piece of work! I've had some parts printed by Shapeways myself, not cheap when you go for the fine detail materials but well worth it. You should give yourself a well earned pat on the back, you've seen a issue and made something to correct it... good bit of model work.
I think it is worth repeating, this Kit by Takom is despite its issues one really fine model. There are now options for improving the model as always happens when new kits come to the market place and I don't think anyone should avoid this kit because it is not 100% perfect.