Landships II

Oh, good grief!!!

OK, I am in the process of helping my better half with decorating so my opportunities to complete the models are limited. However, I have completed the Mk1 'Male' and it has received its more garish SOLOMON camouflage. I've just to number it - A??, would like to find a name and number for this model but nothing has been discovered thus far. As soon as suitable decals have been applied the pair will start to receive suitable levels of weathering.

 

 

Having realised that both A13 'We're all in it' and A17 'Oh I say!!!' have the extended grenade canopies I think it must be assumed to be an A Company modification and I will have to apply the same deal to 'Look who's here' . Going to order another 'Female' and have a go at A 13.

Yes, OK. The thought of doing another steering tail conversion fills me with glee. Still, if I use my simpler version using the original MB parts it shouldn't be so bad. Another extended canopy as well. That means I must build yet another to show the smaller canopy of C Company.

Courtesy of Mk1 Nut, I now have another 'female' MB Mk1. When I return home I will do a blow by blow account of putting it together. I will use the same plan for the steering tail as per 'Improving the MB Steering Tail' thread, although I have some other ideas I might try.

I now have 2 more 'Somme 1916' Mk1's and the 2 'GAZA' Mk1's (see separate thread). I will be giving a blow by blow account of building these and adding the kit 'improvements' when and where appropriate.

I am getting things ready to commence the 'blow by blow' account of building the Mk1 female 'WE'RE ALL IN IT'. The build will include any problems or improvements.

Depending on the model you have ('Somme' vs 'Gaza') you will have the kit plus brass etchings or the kit plus an extra sprue for the Sponson mounting bars and decals (no brass etchings). Construction will follow the instruction sheet but corrected where appropriate.

1.

Complete stage 1, at this stage you may wish to add the lower pistol port and a blanking piece on the inside (this pistol port had the cover mounted within the tank body).  I started drilling out the pistol port with a .6mm drill but ended up using a 1mm in order to achieve the 'right look'.  I further understand that this pistol port appeared on all marks up to and including the MkIV.

Please note that the 'twist' in parts C5 and C2 are self cancelling when put together, I attempted to cure the twist in C5 using boiling water but, although the twist went, distortion appeared in the floor - see photos.

 

That's it for now. If you wish to move ahead may I suggest you work on the parts of Step 7 and then 12 thru 16. There are no gotcha's. If you are making a 'Male' then look back through this thread for making the gun sight vision slit and NB the rather poor gun barrels. I will be tackling a simpler improvement for the Steering tail, but, again, if you are happy with the product 'out of the box' then go ahead with it.

Step 5: You now have several options:

Option 1 - Build the tail steering gear as per the instructions. Clearly this is the easiest option but there are nearly as many inaccuracies in this rendition as there are in the AIRFIX offering. If you intent taking this option can I recommend you scratch build the storage box that was often fitted onto the tail unit.

Option 2 - Follow the guides in the following notes, this will produce a more accurate rendition.

Option 3 - Follow the simplified construction in the Thread 'Improving the MB Mk1 tank's steering tail'

Option 4 - Follow the part scratch build version found earlier in this Topic.

So, what is wrong with the tail unit? If you have read this Topic the full details with supporting photography is available but, in a nut shell: the rear axle is connected to the X section at the point where the 'bolts for the steering to swivel' are moulded. The wheels actually swivel within the hub. There are other issues with rivet numbers and reinforcing beams/support beams as discussed earlier.

So OPTION 2 - With this option I intend doing the minimum work necessary to create an acceptable tail gear.
Firstly, start by cutting the steering arms close to the axle and likewise the tiller (that's the centre, thin piece) after that cut either side of and parallel to the X beam. By doing this latter cut the new axle will fix in the correct position. See photo's for details.

You will see that I have cut the steering arms at the 'other end' but stick with my suggestion for now.

Reinforcing plate D18 has the wrong number and pattern of rivets - in the past 2 builds I have replaced this with a scratch made version - for this I shall use the kit item as this tail assembly will have the storage box.

The front of the tail unit is the 'Tank' end and I have removed the material of the centre portion of the last but one cross beam.  This were made from 2 'L'  angle irons positioned in opposing directions above and below the C sections that run fore and aft.  The upper one (not represented in the kit) faced rearwards and the lower, (represented but facing the wrong direction!!) faced forward.  Below the lower L beam was a further cross support for the tiller arm (the thing with the 2 little circles at the end) - I have modelled this on an earlier build but it is all but a waste of time - especially if the storage box is in place.

Using a thin piece of plastic strip I have remodelled the base of the upper L beam and then added a thin upright at the front end to create the L beam illusion (see photo).

 

That will do for now - I will aim to cover how to make the replacement axle beam in the next session.

Just a quick reminder - if you are going to fit the front lights then you need to drill holes before sticking the sides in place. My photo shows the approximate position, I am fairly confident that, from photos of the original, I've drilled my holes in the right place.

The most challenging part of the tail unit modification is creating a replacement rear axle beam. If you have looked through the thread on 'Improving the MB Mk1 tank's steering tail' you will have an appreciation of the work necessary. It is my opinion that effort in creating the 'right look' is worth it - you may think otherwise.

I make the replacement rear axle from Evergreen 2mm H Column. Start by cutting a length of about 30mm (the axle over all length is going to be 20.5mm), if you are able to use a hobby lathe to index the holes then so much the better. To get the right look I measured a photo of the rear axle and then rounded down the dimensions to compensate for scale effect (ie the plastic H column is notionally thicker). From one end of the length of H Column measure in about 4mm and drill the first hole (use a 0.5 - 0.6mm drill No 76 - 73), the second hole 1.2mm on from that produces the first holes that will be in the thickened part of the axle beam. The third hole is 1.8mm beyond followed by 4 more holes at 1.2mm centres - you should have a total of 7 holes thus far. We are now at the centre of the axle and a space of 3mm is required before the next hole, now complete in the reverse order to the above. You will appreciate why a hobby lathe is a boon for this (PS if you are using a lathe I would very strongly recommend making the pilot holes with a small dental burr rather than a drill as there is much less chance of wander). I have not tried it, but it might be possible to use the etched brass 'thingy' supplied by MB on the fret as a guide - although it measures out longer than the axle!!

At this stage you should have an axle beam with 2 holes + 5 holes + 5 holes + 2 holes. It is necessary to fill some of the section - let us start with the centre - there is a reinforcing web at the centre line as the steering tiller pivot bolt passes through here. To make it you will need a small piece of square section plastic (1mm x 1mm) , cut it at about 45º either end. When I say small this really is - where the cuts bisects, the plastic should not protrude, when placed into the H beam! The real thing was concave (see photo) but I drew the line at trying to replicate that. This piece needs to be fixed on the viewing side of the axle beam - you can glue a short plain length on the reverse.
The thickened part of the axle beam at either end is made in a similar manner but is much simpler to do, take couple of 5mm lengths of plastic strip and cut an angle of about 45º at one end (again, for real, these are concave) glue them in place so that the edge of the chamfer is almost at the 3rd hole edge either end (photo for reference). Do not repeat on the reverse until you have drilled through these added pieces. With the holes drilled through, either create a similar block for the non-viewed side or a plain length of section. Once again, when set, drill through these pieces. You should see daylight through all the holes in the axle beam (the Bovington Mk1 tail has had a repair which has filled in one of the holes). With all the glue set hard, file/sand the excess width, caused by the pieces of styrene, back to the H Column if necessary - looking from above the beam nothing should protrude out of the front or rear face of the axle beam. Now increase the size of the holes to 8mm - 8.5mm (No 68 - 66) work from both sides to create clean holes.

 

You now have a much more representative axle beam.

Now to complete the finishing touches to the tail frame work:

Firstly, using the .25 x 1mm styrene, trim and fit 2 lengths that go from the rectangular bracing plate out beyond the axle beam (Photo 1)

Secondly, turn the unit over and fill in the short length between the lower bracing plate and the inner edge of the axle beam (Photo 2)

Finally, fit lengths that run from the bracing plate over the axle beam. (Photo 3)

Allow to dry thoroughly (making sure everything remains aligned).

I have inserted .5mm rod into the 3 holes and, once set will file to outer pieces to length top and bottom, file the top of the pivot to length and then fit and stick the tiller onto the lower part. Please note that the tiller fits such that the length of the tiller is the lower part.
You need to attach a small piece of plastic to the wheel hubs, these will be used to position the steering arms, which were a few inches lower than the axle beam. The steering arms run parallel to the wheel spokes and are quite long. You may well find the original connecting rods to the tiller are too short. I am adding this as I am unlikely to be able to add any further construction photos until next week. If you continue and use the photo references within this thread and both the 'Improving the MB steering tail' and/or 'Improving the Airfix steering tail' threads. Fit the wheels and hubs and your tail unit is ready for the fiddly job of fitting it. Glue the body to one of the track units - you will need to hold the roof and floor hard against the sides to remove the slight remaining bow. Dry fit the tail gear to ensure it sits where you want it and then glue the unit into the affixed side holding it in the correct place with the other side. Check again that the wheels as sitting correctly. Once dry you can fix the other side in place.

In truth, there are no show stoppers from here on. The exhaust deflectors are delicate and, again, care is required in there removal from the sprue. The purists amongst you need to ensure that the rearmost deflector is angled rearwards slightly (it was attached at the front to the cross beam). Helen Lawson's drawings and various photos show this, I shall leave you to find them rather than add them here.

Happy modelling

PS Comments would be appreciated, at the moment I feel as though I am doing this for myself !!

Before I sign off for the weekend there are a few pointers and pitfalls you must think about:

1. Thinking of representing 'A' Company machines - such as 'We're All In It' or 'Oh, I Say!!!'?  If you are then you will need to fit item D6, the cover for the hydraulic actuator (this item only gets a mention in the instructions for the Gaza tanks). You will need to fabricate an additional mounting bracket for the upper beam of the springs - see photo.  To add to your challenge these tanks and, presumably, others in 'A' Company were fitted with the extended Anti Grenade Canopy.  There is a separate thread on this but I will give some dimensions in due course. 

2.  For the adventurous the Mk 1 WAS fitted with track extenders later in its short life, no anti grenade canopy, no hydraulic actuators and no tail wheels (that is, until Mk1 Nut digs up a photo that shows otherwise!!)  See photo.

3.  For those of you making a 'Gaza' tank - the instructions show the shield and the actuator fitted, photos suggest the shield only (see photo)  as you will see 'Kia Ora' also had studs for the spaced armour.  Another option is without gun sponsons and in the photo note the transverse beams are not fitted to the roof brackets.  (photo)  Gaza tanks also had track extenders fitted and lots of additional iron mongery to hold stores on the roof.

4.  If you want to model your tank with the steering tail raised (as I shall be) you would be surprised how high they were lifted (2 photos)

5.  If you have modelled a Sherman and added extra sandbags and track links onto the front well, guess what - you can do that with a 'Gaza' Mk1 as well (photo)

 

Enjoy your modelling.

I have a couple of moments free and have been reviewing the earlier content of this thread ( up to page 3 so far). Something I should have mentioned: if you are fitting the shield over the hydraulic actuator with the steering tail then you need to dry fit and do some modifying at the bottom to get it to fit. In addition you need to bias the unit towards the ventilation grill, it will only go over half a mm or so, but that is sufficient. The bias allows the access door to open!

With the correctly positioned axle beam it is necessary to fabricate new steering arms, made from .25mm x 1mm styrene the arms from the hubs are 8mm long and those from the tiller to the arms 12mm.  The arms from the tiller need to be stuck on the topside (ie between the tiller arm and the X-frame reinforcing plate.  The outer ends stuck underneath the short arms.  This completes the tail assembly which, when dry, can be carefully positioned into the rear of the tank - add the springs without gluing them to the tail unit to ensure all is sitting correctly.  Once you are happy with the 'sit' a spot of glue on the tail then glue springs to tail and a spot of glue into one side.  I suggest you wait until the one side is dry before removing the other side and gluing the whole assembly together.

 

The photo's show this 'simple' conversion completed and a more complex version with the tiller and wheels displaced (even this version is only a slightly more demanding conversion - covered in its own thread as previously mentioned.

This has become the bible for the MB tanks TeeELL, I can now make a start on the tail wheel assembly with confidence. Will you be making this into an article for the main page ?
Paul

-- Edited by Paul Bonnett on Friday 4th of July 2014 04:12:51 PM

I think he may mean an article for Landships II.

I agree.

Just send me a text in any format or work with PDA if you'd like to turn the posts into an article.

Regards,

Charlie