Excellent bit of modelling Anton...but with the price you pay for resin kits, you shouldn't have had to do all that extra work!!
Grant
Thanks Grant,
You are absolutely right, but model not correct.
I realized it only after I purchase it. In order to bring it to the right form I have to change at least conspicuous things – like one rear wheel instead of three, wrong hull and other “big” things. There are a lot of pictures of the machine available in the internet and I can not understand why such mistakes were made by Kora.
Below sample of the casting.
-- Edited by ZigZag on Tuesday 28th of June 2016 11:46:00 AM
A brave move by Kora to bring out a model of this unusual vehicle, but like you say Anton, it's not correct, and there are enough internet images of the real thing, so they should have got it right...or as right as they could.
In actual fact, there are only three pictures of the real thing that I've been able to find, one of which is just a mirror image of the original.
I have the 1/48th card model that I'm using to build a 1/35th scale in plastic card and have noticed a few things wrong both on the card model and on the Kora kit.
Looking at photos of the kits, it would seem as if they all had a common beginning.
The Kora kit has steel plates on the wheels instead of wood and the rivet pattern underneath does not match that on top. The wheels could never had been cast or moved in one piece, so the joints are missing.
Whether the rear wheel would not have been cast in one piece or three - it would certainly have made sense for it to be in three pieces for casting and transporting purposes - look at ordinary steam rollers - most of them had a two-piece front roller.
The springs on the front end of the rear wheel assembly do not make sense unless the rear of the bracket is hinged - which it isn't.
The large wheels would not have been cast as a T-beam because of the problem trying to curve it without cutting a lot of fillets out of the web to stop it buckling and then welding it back into one piece.
If you look for pictures of the propulsion mechanism, the large wheel is shown as two angles, with a rubber tyre running against each curved metal part forming the cross-piece of the "T" - if you're doing weathering, you would need to add skid marks to the steel.
No matter what source you use, it's going to be conjecture but, as is usual with most kits, no-one with engineering experience has ever been used to consider things like rivets vs bolts, break points, fixing points, etc, but is 1/72 I suppose that doesn't matter too much.
Tony I agree with you on the all topics except rear wheel. You can clear see one rear wheel on the attached picture. I also attached all the pictures I have.
Unlike the model, a three-piece wheel's parts would have a very tight fit to stop mud/muck getting in, and if you blow up 10645896, you will see a faint line that appears to be a join.
